Since reform and opening-up, Chinese clothing industry has developed rapidly development, rapid rise to become one of the world's clothing nation, China "clothing manufacturing" of the nation's image thorough popular feeling, the much praise. But on the other hand, Chinese clothing design strength is still a little owe temperature. Especially with the clothing industry into the brand operation time and create the brand must design ability, also be promoted to a new height--design management gradually into many domestic clothing entrepreneur's field of vision.
Brand entrepreneurs is very concerned about a reasonable design management system is how to establish, because this can let the value of commercial system design in the maximum effect, become to promote the brand enterprise development endogenous power. The science and engineering university of zhejiang institute of clothing, director of the clothes department ZhaoWeiGuo said, design management from birth to development only nearly 30 years of time. Design management from England in the creative industries of the birth of a new discipline, drive the British the the development of creative industry, and at the same time in the United States, France won considerable development, design management in manufacturing and even whole industry in the industry plays an extremely important role.
Must be design management
ZhaoWeiGuo believes that the current domestic clothing brand design management current situation is, have a design to do not have management, management lack the method, has little effect also method. "In fact, brand development has his past, this life and future, the brand in different phases of development need design and management is not the same, 35 individuals and hundreds of thousands, even hundreds of thousands of company do design way. In thousands of tens of thousands of people in the team, he must rely on the system to do, to make the system management."
From the realistic perspective, the current domestic brand in the design and development has a representation is that a quarter of the product was only need 200 &equipment version, but often have to do 800 of enterprise, that is to say 600 is a waste of money. ZhaoWeiGuo will this phenomenon compared to the image of the "scattered bullet". The cause of the phenomenon, is the enterprise did not have the design of the system management, this not only conducive to brand design level, and to the enterprise manpower material resources is a kind of great waste.
In fact, in the face of increasingly complex consumer market, clothing design must be from the perceptual experience to more rational analysis, that kind of individual contribution to create individual type does not conform to the development needs of the market already, must establish certain organization.
Dalian SiFan clothing accessories Co., LTD. Is one of the famous women's clothing enterprise. For design management topics, our reporter for the company President ZhouYan once carried on the related interview. ZhouYan had a market research to conclude that the Chinese consumers only 6% complete self identity. 6% of the data to let her quite surprised, because it means more than 90% of consumers don't know it should choose what kind of clothing. To this, ZhouYan think, the brand has the responsibility to set up their own consumers osmosis aesthetic concept, their inner through the form of the external clothes out. That is, the brand is to design management, need to make all the products under the management system of the relationship between a reasonable, and through the curing this relationship, let consumer consumption gradually become the accidental purpose consumption.
Popular terms, to the clothing design management, is to get the general management of the basic principle into the design of the brand to work, the work and the related personnel organization and coordination, the work content and result of the planning and evaluation, in order to complete the work, and at the same time, improve work efficiency. In the process, to global work of design managers of both design and management of the fusion of work. But the garment industry faced with the following two position: one is the designer as design managers. Although these designer has not common in the design of capability, but not good at management. Women's clothing brand "jie shi" creative director of ShiJie had told reporters: "I like this study design to the middle of the road management, difficult to walk, designer to study will management is a long process." That is let stylist involved in management work, for products it, will let their own design in the same business do certain balance. But the designer sometimes compare idealized, want to insist to self but they are not willing to compromise with market easily. So, to participate in the management of stylist, although has the ability to design the control natural advantage, but also have a savage place.
The other is to get good at people for the management of design managers. This coincided with the former case instead, such people despite the ability of the management, market have a keen sense of smell, but don't really understand design. But as the leader of the level he, of course has its own discretion, their goal is to produce more products by the market, but this product has may have different from the brand own style localization. Therefore, how to can be in a don't understand the executor is under design produced to meet the market demand, but it is good design products, natural has a game. Thus the individual talent and management of stylist the rational analysis well together, in practice and is not an easy thing.
Design management system implementation
ZhaoWeiGuo think, now design not actually is a kind of individual behavior, but a organization of the implementation process. It is an organization, a system, a brand is to need to rely on system to complete design task, just in this system design director, designers, design assistant of roles they are not the same, how to these people in series, it is design management of problem to solve.
He also said that design management based on retail is concerned, the first is based on retail system, mode is the characteristic of research and development system; The second is to make a research and development system of control mechanism; The third is different in the management of the node, the formation of the results have control of the reasonable evaluation system. Once the system is established, the brand will have a clear orientation, and brand development will not go to rely on designer. If do not rely on, brand development is sustainable. Don't rely on is design management a more core ideas
"Design management to be built on the basis of planning, which is planning to have the possibility to do management. Your brand whether have three years of strategic planning, five years of strategic planning, whether to have a plan. This is the plan to be born several different levels concept." ZhaoWeiGuo said, goods to the brand planning is very important. Goods in foreign call MD planning, the status of the person in charge of the high even art director, some firms are also personally by the boss part-time. Optimal clothing to the library in financial crisis led in each day, 100 billion yen sales performance, he benefited from his goods planning.
Commodity planning is the brand development needs, according to need to be competitive, market needs, consumers need to formulate strategies. Have the goods after planning, design planning began to be born. ZhaoWeiGuo contact with a lot of stylist, these designer thought is to do theme, do feel. "But I'm at home and abroad and consultant company communication process one conclusion: from the brand of the operations of a business perspective, all elements of the design can be quantitative. I used to think it will depend on the design feeling, design is qualitative, quantitative can't. But now I think, can be designed, the quantitative quantitative for business planning, design, planning, so as to provide a reliable basis to establish your system, this to every company is different."
Guangdong is sound louvain clothing limited company President XieBingZheng also think, in the design management brand products planning is important, brand products with marketing will have problems, but goods in planning if conflict will be much more special. For example, after the market research, make commodity planning. The amount of t-shirts, how much is how much jacket, and then to design team to design. Results the product market sales are poor, is a contradiction. Marketing Department said the product design is bad, design department said it was your goods bad planning. XieBingZheng said, than sound louvain can go now, is actually the products and commodities planning bound together. Designers should not only understand the development of the product, but also to understand the whole market statistics, analysis, and Marketing Department should have very good cooperation.
dialogue
ShiJie is the women's clothing brand "jie shi" design director, is China's top ten designer clothing. In the interview, ShiJie said design management in "jie shi" brand has been involved in, but the system but also just close to perform three or four years of things.
Reporter: you think clothing brand why to want to make design management?
ShiJie: clothing brand was a combination of art and commerce, must related to management. Design management level, can affect how far can brand, brand promotion can to what degree. Now some of the domestic brand why had not been able to "take" out of the water, not form a certain scale of development, on the one hand, is why they don't do a good design management aspects.
I think, design management to some extent have certain contradiction. Because the design is sensible, management is rational, design management will need to use the rational thinking to control the development of perceptual thinking. The designer must gradually learn to use rational thinking to treat correctly design of the play, to guarantee that the standardization of brand development.
Reporter: you think the design management mainly involves what aspects?
ShiJie: to start from the brand culture, do work design project, and design project is rational thinking a reflection.
In addition, will go to the organization of the product materials, profile and colour, etc, also is the brand of expression, these aspects are also use rational thinking to frame the brand. With the right colour language, material language, language to express the profile of this one season is the cultural characteristics of the product, and not think of where do the unconstrained style where. From art expression speaking, design is along with the gender thinking; But from a business considerations in brand, must want to use rational thinking, to check the expression is correct, whether with the market demand.
Taken together, from art and market two Angle to brand products to consider. Neither too consider the market reaction and lose the brand features, but also cannot too too persistent artistic expression and ignore the market demand, it will weaken the competitiveness of the terminal brand in the market. If the brand in the design management is bad, is likely to lead to the erratic brand, product recognition will be relatively poor.
China's clothing market into a shuffle stage, can in the shuffle the brand is sure to stay in recognition of the high, this also is other any brand is irreplaceable, this just have a reason for living.
Reporter: "jie shi" brand is how to design management?
ShiJie: in the design project, around the brand of neutral, elegant core characteristics of related work experience, and then go to organize materials, profile, color, etc. At persistence oneself route, to refer to absorb the international fashion trend. Management is the key position, but we always not from the brand culture and art style localization pursuit.
In the work, and the main I to secure. In the process, will absorb from design to marketing, buy a hand, even is the agent's opinion, because the brand in the market to respect other people on the front lines of the work reality, their opinions are of great help to brand development. In the commercial the piece, must be collective wisdom, to implement product series. This is a balance. After all, the product is very rational terminal, brand steering and agents are rational thinking.
Reporter: you design management team is about?
ShiJie: mainly have the creative director (brand director), design director and chief designer. In the time of the meeting open products, will join us terminal management supervision, and some senior agent, etc, to our product for the evaluation. But the final decision is also is the creative director. My position is the creative director.
Reporter: jie in brand management; some difficulties in??? What???
ShiJie: is how to balance the pursuit and commercial design on the orientation, sometimes both will have a conflict. What brand is to stick to style more, or respect the market more. But we will have a degree in overall assurance. For example, 30%-40% is our style of, explanation express brand style; 60%-70% is sales, fully mix of market factors, the premise is in stable style, to do practical relatively strong clothing.
Reporter: you think at present "jie shi" design management do how?
ShiJie: I itself is design background, in the design of management to consider more accustomed to design, will be more sensible, rational thinking relatively less. Although this will make the brand has strong development motive power, but at the same time also can increase the brand in the terminal factors of instability, overall it is not reached art and business the perfect balance state. However, this means that there is still a lot of development was jie potential. In the design and management, we need more rational thinking.
Some in the terminal do more successful brand, their design management do better and overall rational will more than perceptual, too stable. This stability may make brand has 3-5 years of peak period of development, but after that is likely to decline, the reason is that the brand contains the power of art and culture are relatively weak. They too rational, if too from terminal management point of view to think about design, can let the brand culture and art rendering the stamina insufficient development. After all, promote the continuous development of brand are motivated brand culture.
Source "the Chinese textile nets"
Edit: Emma